As promised, a few notes on latter half of my recent UK trip (warning: lots of photos)…
On our way out of Edinburgh, we decided to pay a visit to Roslin, birthplace of Dolly the Sheep, to check out the mysterious Rosslyn Chapel. As an enthusiast (though not a serious one, mind you) for esoterica of all sorts, I just had to see this 15th century church, which was built by a Knight Templar, boasts strong associations with Freemasonry, contains hundreds of carvings of the pagan Green Man, and has variously been said to contain the Holy Grail, the mummified head of Christ, the heart of Robert the Bruce, a lost Gospel or two, and the true Stone of Destiny!
I don’t put stock in any of that, of course, but the chapel was still well worth a visit for a look at its incredibly elaborate masonry.









Glasgow was a bit of a disappointment, mainly because we arrived too late to see much after visiting Roslin. There were a few museums I wanted to visit, but they were all closed by 5:00 PM. I’ve been a big fan of Charles Rennie Mackintosh ever since a college design class, and they supposedly have some good club nights, so we dropped by the Glasgow School of Art—but it was closed too. We also tried to visit some record stores—until, of course, they all closed. Unfortunately, we didn’t know where Belle & Sebastian hang out, so we called it an early night.

London was cool, as usual—although, this being my fifth visit (and, amazingly, my second of 2003), I hope I won’t sound too pretentious if I say it’s getting to be slightly old hat. I personally was rather pleased at what a seasoned Underground user I’ve become. I think the only times we actually had to look up the station for a destination were to find Woody’s (a club with mind-bogglingly expensive drinks and an enjoyable night of “minimal electro, spaced-out disco and NY punk-funk”) and the fantastic Clapham Kebab House.
In addition to a lot of the usual sights and museums, we finally got to do some record shopping, visiting both the Rough Trade shop off Portobello Road and the numerous shops on Berwick Street in Soho. I have to say, though: it may be the seemingly dormant British music scene, or incipient iTunes-ism, or my new, grown-up sense of fiscal responsibility, but this time I didn’t leave the UK with a fifth of the CDs that I usually do.

Photography afficionado that I am, I also really enjoyed visiting the exhibition for the Schweppes Photographic Portrait Prize at the National Portrait Gallery. I even got to snap a quick, paparazzi-style photo of Mary Archer and her disgraced husband Jeffrey admiring her portrait in the exhibition! I was amused to see that the gallery also has a permanent portrait of Apple’s own Jonathan Ive—on the screen of an iMac no less.


All in all, the latter half of the trip was OK, but not great. I’ve gotten savvier about traveling in the UK every time I’ve visited, and this trip was no exception. The big lesson this time: do not visit London in early January, since the weather’s less than desirable and there is very little of interest going on.